We left Fort Nelson at 7:20 AM. We had a relatively peaceful night at the West End Campground, AFTER we moved our motor home to a camping site that was away from the RV Park’s restaurant and saloon. I kid you not. When we checked in the campground, the clerk was donned in a saloon outfit. You fellows would 
have enjoyed the view. Trailer Life Campground Directory does not have a rating system for this type of facility that is to be sure.
We decided to indulge and visit one of the local eateries we had seen advertised in the Milepost book. Mag and Mel’s sounded like a friendly place with great food. When we entered the establishment, we found that it was a chicken and burger joint. Do you remember Goober from Mayberry RFD? Well, the manager of Mag and Mel’s reminded us of him. His assistant must have shopped at the same place the desk clerk at the campground had shopped, as her apparel suggested she had another job after Mag and Mel’s closed. No, when they told us that they weren’t sure if they had any chicken breasts in their four piece chicken dinner, we decided that maybe we should find another restaurant. “Thanks,” we said as we quickly left. We ended up at a Boston Pizza place. Good choice.
When we had checked in the campground, there were few RV’s on the sites. By 1:00 AM (yes, they kept coming), the place was pretty full. Fort Nelson is a common stopping place whether you are coming or going to Alaska. Dennis conversed with a full-time RV couple from Texas that had
been on the road seventeen months. The fellow looked rather weathered, and sounded like he was chasing a dream. Their rig was aged and appeared to have been jury-rigged more than once. It is amazing the rigs that people trust for travel in this part of the country. None of them will ever suffer from ulcers, as they don’t worry about anything, including the roadworthiness of their rigs.
We were on the road for twenty minutes when we were treated to a view of a mother black bear and her two cubs. The cubs were so cute and cuddly, it looked as though you could pick one up and tuck it under your arm. They might have weighed thirty pounds apiece. Definitely first year cubs. Hard to believe that they will become huge and a danger to an unsuspecting hiker. There are warnings everywhere about the danger of bears. “Don’t feed the bears,” they all shout.
Another twenty miles up the road, we were treated to an incredible vista of the Muskwa River Valley. In the distance, you can see the Northern Rockies. Breathtaking. Shortly thereafter, we see an ambling critter, almost lumbering like a horse. What is it? It has a white tail. As we approach it, we realize it is a baby moose. It almost appeared playful and teasing, running back and forth across the road.
The condition of the Alaska Highway today is not as good as yesterday. We are warned that there will be areas of loose gravel for the next fifty miles. Without warning, you suddenly find yourself driving on gravel rather than asphalt. Short patches, but nonetheless rough surface. This has really been
the first road condition issue we have experienced and for that we are grateful.
73 miles out of Fort Nelson and we arrive at what is advertised as the “Cinnamon Bun Center of the Galactic Cluster.” Tetsa River Services and Campground boasts fresh bread baking daily. They also offer gas, diesel, propane, small repairs, horseback riding, camping and just about anything a person might need in these parts. The biggest decision is which homemade bun to select. Do you want cinnamon and raisin, lemon, apple-apricot, sticky or cream cheese frosting? They all need to be lifted from the pan with two hands. These are not cinnamon buns for wimps. Only hearty appetites need apply. Delicious and well worth the calories. Dennis picks cinnamon and raisin and I pick the tart lemon. Good choices. It will be a light lunch today. Interesting that there was a relatively small sign advertising the establishment. Speaks to word of mouth and the power of the Milepost book. We never would have known had it not been for the book. This place gives new meaning to the word, “boondocks.”
Four or five miles ahead and we see the mother lode of beaver dams. Looks like a beaver lodge. Competes with the Fairmont at Banff. Talk about cooperation and working as
a team. This series of three dams is a testament to working together. My Mother told me that my Great Uncle used to be plagued by beavers, constantly constructing and reconstructing dams on his farm near Midland, Michigan. He used dynamite to eliminate them. Sad when you see how hard the little critters work.
We enter the Stone Mountain Provincial Park. As the name implies, we quickly see a towering stone mountain. The Tetsa River runs along side the road and makes a great scenic. This area is also known for the prolific stone sheep population. We hope that we are lucky enough to see one or two. They lick the stone at the roadside. After eating the galactic size cinnamon bu
ns, we could use the exercise required to chase down a couple. The sheep look more like mountain goats, but they are sheep. They are darker and smaller in size than big horn sheep located in Banff.
Our prayers are answered. We pass Summit Lake and come upon a mother and two baby stone sheep. They pose for us and seem rather at ease with humans. Probably not good for their longevity. We look to the right and moving on the mountain side is the father. He is watching his family below. Instinctively, the mother and youngsters cross the road and begin ascending the 70-80% grade mountainside. Soon, the male follows them. Picture perfect.
Another turn in the road and we drive into a scenic that consists of Rocky Mountains, alpine laced hillsides and a rock riverbed. I look in the
Milepost and learn that the name of this river valley is MacDonald River. Didn’t know we owned property in this neck of the woods. Well, Dennis’ Dad was from Quebec City so perhaps he acquired the land on a trip to the northwest. Lol
Mile after mile, it just doesn’t end. Despite rough road conditions, the scenery is exquisite. The Alaskan Highway in British Columbia is different from the scenic roads in Banff and Jasper. The Alaskan Highway affords
you such close access to the mountains beside it; you could require a chiropractor after craning your neck to constantly look up at the peaks. Now the Toad River begins to meander along side our route.
The Toad River brings us to Muncho Lake Provincial Park. This seven mile long, one-mile wide lake rivals the lakes at Banff and Jasper. Different in color, the water has a greenish blue cast, caused by copper oxide leaching from the soil. There are reports that Muncho Lake is 730 feet deep, but the Canadian government has confirmed 400 feet. As I recall, the Finger Lakes in New York are similarly deep, with one of the lakes over 600 feet in depth.
Muncho Lake is lovely. Campgrounds dot the edges in some spots. Vegetated hillsides bump into craggy mountains, creating a beautiful backdrop for this lake. Interesting to note, we stopped along the way park is to have lunch in the motor home. While on the side of the road at a turnout, in a span of thirty minutes, only six vehicles passed by our stop. This road is not heavily traveled and that makes the gawking that you want to more possible.
We have seen several “Watch for Buffalo” signs today, but as of yet, no sightings. We have also seen two wild horse signs, but not the horses.
We make a turn in the road and catch our first glimpse of the Liard River. “Liard” is French for “poplar”. We cross the last original suspension bridge from the original Alaskan Highway. It was constructed in 1943. The Liard River will take us to Liard River Hotsprings Provincial Park. This park contains the second most significant hot springs in all of Canada (they didn’t say where the first one was). For $5.00 you can take a dip or stay all day if you prefer. Someone must have liked it, as there was a tent pitched at the trailhead. When you think how much the hotels charge for a room with a whirlpool, this is the way to go. B
ed and whirlpool for $5.00. Let’s see, with the discount on Canadian funds, which equates to about $4.50. That’s about how much we paid for a gallon of gas yesterday. Different levels of the springs range in temp from 104 to 128 degrees. Nice. I take a dip while Dennis chooses to walk around and take pictures of the springs. It is a .4-mile hike to the spring’s area, easily traversed by a boardwalk. The boardwalk is built over an area that is filled with plants not normally grown in this climate. In fact, there are over 250 species of boreal plants and 14 varieties of wild orchids. None were blooming this time of the year. If it is like Michigan, that occurs in the spring. The warmth from the springs creates this phenomenon. The limestone in the area is very porous, causing water to seep deep into the earth’s core. It comes bubbling back to the surface at its extremely warm temperature. I can attest to its warmth and soothing feeling.
Again, we are warned about possible buffalo on the road ahead. There is even a photo of one crossing the road in the Milepost book.
Yes! Only a few miles northwest of the springs and we spot one munching on the side of the road. He could have cared less whether or not we were there. I must say, they are not the most attractive animals I have photographed. With matted coat and flies buzzing about its head, I reexamined my belief that all of nature is beautiful. This animal has a serious body image problem. I am even rethinking my willingness to down a buffalo burger if the opportunity presents itself. Within the next twenty-five miles, we saw actual herds of buffalo. One arrogant member of the herd had the audacity
to cross the road, stopping several RV’s and cars in its path. Taking its time to cross the road, we captured a few photos.
This has been quite a day: we have seen black bears, moose, stone sheep and buffalo.
With 3,700 miles and we are yet to enter Alaska. That will happen on Sunday, when we arrive at Tok.
have enjoyed the view. Trailer Life Campground Directory does not have a rating system for this type of facility that is to be sure.We decided to indulge and visit one of the local eateries we had seen advertised in the Milepost book. Mag and Mel’s sounded like a friendly place with great food. When we entered the establishment, we found that it was a chicken and burger joint. Do you remember Goober from Mayberry RFD? Well, the manager of Mag and Mel’s reminded us of him. His assistant must have shopped at the same place the desk clerk at the campground had shopped, as her apparel suggested she had another job after Mag and Mel’s closed. No, when they told us that they weren’t sure if they had any chicken breasts in their four piece chicken dinner, we decided that maybe we should find another restaurant. “Thanks,” we said as we quickly left. We ended up at a Boston Pizza place. Good choice.
When we had checked in the campground, there were few RV’s on the sites. By 1:00 AM (yes, they kept coming), the place was pretty full. Fort Nelson is a common stopping place whether you are coming or going to Alaska. Dennis conversed with a full-time RV couple from Texas that had
been on the road seventeen months. The fellow looked rather weathered, and sounded like he was chasing a dream. Their rig was aged and appeared to have been jury-rigged more than once. It is amazing the rigs that people trust for travel in this part of the country. None of them will ever suffer from ulcers, as they don’t worry about anything, including the roadworthiness of their rigs.We were on the road for twenty minutes when we were treated to a view of a mother black bear and her two cubs. The cubs were so cute and cuddly, it looked as though you could pick one up and tuck it under your arm. They might have weighed thirty pounds apiece. Definitely first year cubs. Hard to believe that they will become huge and a danger to an unsuspecting hiker. There are warnings everywhere about the danger of bears. “Don’t feed the bears,” they all shout.
Another twenty miles up the road, we were treated to an incredible vista of the Muskwa River Valley. In the distance, you can see the Northern Rockies. Breathtaking. Shortly thereafter, we see an ambling critter, almost lumbering like a horse. What is it? It has a white tail. As we approach it, we realize it is a baby moose. It almost appeared playful and teasing, running back and forth across the road.
The condition of the Alaska Highway today is not as good as yesterday. We are warned that there will be areas of loose gravel for the next fifty miles. Without warning, you suddenly find yourself driving on gravel rather than asphalt. Short patches, but nonetheless rough surface. This has really been
the first road condition issue we have experienced and for that we are grateful.73 miles out of Fort Nelson and we arrive at what is advertised as the “Cinnamon Bun Center of the Galactic Cluster.” Tetsa River Services and Campground boasts fresh bread baking daily. They also offer gas, diesel, propane, small repairs, horseback riding, camping and just about anything a person might need in these parts. The biggest decision is which homemade bun to select. Do you want cinnamon and raisin, lemon, apple-apricot, sticky or cream cheese frosting? They all need to be lifted from the pan with two hands. These are not cinnamon buns for wimps. Only hearty appetites need apply. Delicious and well worth the calories. Dennis picks cinnamon and raisin and I pick the tart lemon. Good choices. It will be a light lunch today. Interesting that there was a relatively small sign advertising the establishment. Speaks to word of mouth and the power of the Milepost book. We never would have known had it not been for the book. This place gives new meaning to the word, “boondocks.”
Four or five miles ahead and we see the mother lode of beaver dams. Looks like a beaver lodge. Competes with the Fairmont at Banff. Talk about cooperation and working as
a team. This series of three dams is a testament to working together. My Mother told me that my Great Uncle used to be plagued by beavers, constantly constructing and reconstructing dams on his farm near Midland, Michigan. He used dynamite to eliminate them. Sad when you see how hard the little critters work.We enter the Stone Mountain Provincial Park. As the name implies, we quickly see a towering stone mountain. The Tetsa River runs along side the road and makes a great scenic. This area is also known for the prolific stone sheep population. We hope that we are lucky enough to see one or two. They lick the stone at the roadside. After eating the galactic size cinnamon bu
ns, we could use the exercise required to chase down a couple. The sheep look more like mountain goats, but they are sheep. They are darker and smaller in size than big horn sheep located in Banff.Our prayers are answered. We pass Summit Lake and come upon a mother and two baby stone sheep. They pose for us and seem rather at ease with humans. Probably not good for their longevity. We look to the right and moving on the mountain side is the father. He is watching his family below. Instinctively, the mother and youngsters cross the road and begin ascending the 70-80% grade mountainside. Soon, the male follows them. Picture perfect.
Another turn in the road and we drive into a scenic that consists of Rocky Mountains, alpine laced hillsides and a rock riverbed. I look in the
Milepost and learn that the name of this river valley is MacDonald River. Didn’t know we owned property in this neck of the woods. Well, Dennis’ Dad was from Quebec City so perhaps he acquired the land on a trip to the northwest. LolMile after mile, it just doesn’t end. Despite rough road conditions, the scenery is exquisite. The Alaskan Highway in British Columbia is different from the scenic roads in Banff and Jasper. The Alaskan Highway affords
you such close access to the mountains beside it; you could require a chiropractor after craning your neck to constantly look up at the peaks. Now the Toad River begins to meander along side our route.The Toad River brings us to Muncho Lake Provincial Park. This seven mile long, one-mile wide lake rivals the lakes at Banff and Jasper. Different in color, the water has a greenish blue cast, caused by copper oxide leaching from the soil. There are reports that Muncho Lake is 730 feet deep, but the Canadian government has confirmed 400 feet. As I recall, the Finger Lakes in New York are similarly deep, with one of the lakes over 600 feet in depth.
Muncho Lake is lovely. Campgrounds dot the edges in some spots. Vegetated hillsides bump into craggy mountains, creating a beautiful backdrop for this lake. Interesting to note, we stopped along the way park is to have lunch in the motor home. While on the side of the road at a turnout, in a span of thirty minutes, only six vehicles passed by our stop. This road is not heavily traveled and that makes the gawking that you want to more possible.
We have seen several “Watch for Buffalo” signs today, but as of yet, no sightings. We have also seen two wild horse signs, but not the horses.
We make a turn in the road and catch our first glimpse of the Liard River. “Liard” is French for “poplar”. We cross the last original suspension bridge from the original Alaskan Highway. It was constructed in 1943. The Liard River will take us to Liard River Hotsprings Provincial Park. This park contains the second most significant hot springs in all of Canada (they didn’t say where the first one was). For $5.00 you can take a dip or stay all day if you prefer. Someone must have liked it, as there was a tent pitched at the trailhead. When you think how much the hotels charge for a room with a whirlpool, this is the way to go. B
ed and whirlpool for $5.00. Let’s see, with the discount on Canadian funds, which equates to about $4.50. That’s about how much we paid for a gallon of gas yesterday. Different levels of the springs range in temp from 104 to 128 degrees. Nice. I take a dip while Dennis chooses to walk around and take pictures of the springs. It is a .4-mile hike to the spring’s area, easily traversed by a boardwalk. The boardwalk is built over an area that is filled with plants not normally grown in this climate. In fact, there are over 250 species of boreal plants and 14 varieties of wild orchids. None were blooming this time of the year. If it is like Michigan, that occurs in the spring. The warmth from the springs creates this phenomenon. The limestone in the area is very porous, causing water to seep deep into the earth’s core. It comes bubbling back to the surface at its extremely warm temperature. I can attest to its warmth and soothing feeling.Again, we are warned about possible buffalo on the road ahead. There is even a photo of one crossing the road in the Milepost book.
Yes! Only a few miles northwest of the springs and we spot one munching on the side of the road. He could have cared less whether or not we were there. I must say, they are not the most attractive animals I have photographed. With matted coat and flies buzzing about its head, I reexamined my belief that all of nature is beautiful. This animal has a serious body image problem. I am even rethinking my willingness to down a buffalo burger if the opportunity presents itself. Within the next twenty-five miles, we saw actual herds of buffalo. One arrogant member of the herd had the audacity
to cross the road, stopping several RV’s and cars in its path. Taking its time to cross the road, we captured a few photos.This has been quite a day: we have seen black bears, moose, stone sheep and buffalo.
With 3,700 miles and we are yet to enter Alaska. That will happen on Sunday, when we arrive at Tok.
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